Two days before our big drive, Barb, one of my camping friends who I was visiting in Arizona took me on a preview of the Apache Trail scenic drive, a nearly 40-mile route also known as Highway 88. We went as far as Tortilla Flat, the last remaining stagecoach stop along this historic path. I found myself holding my breath as we navigated the narrow, twisting two-lane road through the Superstition Mountains. When we stopped at a scenic overlook above Canyon Lake, I couldn’t help but let out an excited squeal. The view was breathtaking—sunlight reflected off the water, creating what looked like countless sparkling lights, while the copper-colored mountains rose dramatically against the calm blue lake. It felt like stepping into a painting come to life. That first glimpse of the Apache Trail was nothing short of magic.
On that sunny day, we spent about an hour exploring Tortilla Flat. This tiny outpost, popular with tourists, had parking spaces filled with cars and motorcycles from all over the country. We took plenty of pictures, including a goofy one inside the little jail there. Before leaving, Barb mentioned we’d drive beyond Tortilla Flat to Roosevelt Lake in a couple of days. I smiled and said, “Sure, sounds like fun,” not realizing at the time what kind of road lay ahead.
The Apache Trail Scenic Drive Beyond Tortilla Flat
When the day of the big drive arrived, Barb and I started early. She had driven this section of the Apache Trail a few years before and was excited to experience it again during my visit. I was less sure, especially since my experience with mountain roads is limited. As someone from Wisconsin, I’m used to hills and bluffs, not dramatic, winding mountain passes. Still, having already been to Tortilla Flat once, I felt slightly more comfortable this time.
We made a quick detour to check out the Tortilla Flat Campground. I was impressed—each site had water and sewer hookups, and while the spots were close together, the views of the surrounding desert and mountains made up for it. After that, we pressed on, continuing past Tortilla Flat. Not long after, the pavement disappeared, and we found ourselves on a dusty, rough dirt road. The sudden change made my stomach flip, and every bump made me grip the seat tighter. My right foot instinctively pressed down as if phantom-braking could somehow help. Barb stayed calm and chatted happily, clearly unbothered, while I silently worked through my nerves. At one point, the incline was so steep I could see nothing but open sky ahead, which didn’t do much to calm me down. I tried to mask my anxiety with light jokes, but my white-knuckled grip on the door handle probably gave me away.
Primitive Road Ahead
We eventually came to a pull-off marked with a sign warning, “Primitive road ahead, last turnaround.” The message was clear: only 4-wheel drive vehicles or UTVs should continue. My heart raced. Was this where the adventure ended? Sensing my hesitation, Barb asked if I was okay with moving forward. I took a deep breath and managed to say, “Maybe just a little nervous, but let’s keep going.” After all, I always encourage others to push past fear in travel, so it was time for me to take my own advice.
The road beyond was a mix of narrow switchbacks, blind corners, and dirt embankments that separated us from steep canyon drop-offs. I was relieved to meet only two other vehicles, which gave us some breathing room on the one-lane sections. As we climbed higher, Barb casually mentioned that we wouldn’t be taking this same route back. Instead, we’d return via the highway. Relief washed over me—it was like a weight lifting off my shoulders. With that reassurance, I started to relax and fully take in the dramatic beauty surrounding us.
The landscape was stunning. Towering peaks stood against the clear blue sky, with the soft greens of cacti dotting the arid terrain. Colors ranged from sandy browns to coppery reds, all blending into a postcard-worthy scene. We passed over a one-lane bridge spanning the dry Fish Creek bed, nearby a camper sat parked at a precarious angle. At one point, a wild javelina darted across the road in front of us. It was my first time seeing one, and we stopped for a moment to watch it disappear into the brush.
Admiring The Views Of The Salt River
After Fish Creek, we came upon Apache Lake. We paused at an overlook to admire the view but decided against visiting the nearby campground, choosing instead to keep moving forward. The Apache Trail itself follows the Salt River, which stretches over 200 miles through Maricopa and Gila Counties. Four reservoirs along the river—Saguaro, Canyon, Apache, and Roosevelt Lakes—offer various recreational activities. Seeing these shimmering bodies of water along the trail was such a treat, and it became clear why this route was once a vital stagecoach road.
Before reaching the Roosevelt Dam, we made a quick stop at Burnt Corral Campground. Situated along the Salt River, this dispersed camping area was quiet and sparsely populated on a chilly February day. It was a peaceful place, with river access for swimming, fishing, or boating. Campsites, which cost $20 per night, can be reserved online or claimed first-come, first-served. America The Beautiful Senior Pass holders get a discount, and amenities include vault toilets and water. I could see myself car camping there someday.
We Made It To Roosevelt Lake
Finally, we arrived at Roosevelt Dam. At 210 feet tall, it’s not as towering as Hoover Dam, but it’s still impressive in its own right. Built for irrigation and flood control, the dam serves a critical purpose. We took in views from two vantage points—one directly from Apache Trail scenic drive and another higher up, where we could see both the dam and Roosevelt Lake. The massive Roosevelt Lake Bridge, stretching 1,080 feet, added to the dramatic scenery. After snapping a few photos, we soaked in the moment before heading toward Tonto National Monument.
The drive back to Apache Junction, this time on the highway and in the dark, was far less nerve-wracking. Reflecting on the day, I realized this adventure had been one of my favorite experiences in Arizona. Despite my initial fears, I pushed through, and the reward was an unforgettable journey through some of the most rugged and beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen. It turns out, even when fear takes hold, the best memories come from stepping outside your comfort zone.
